The Mantelsonndeg is approaching and some of you will probably hunt for some special occasions this weekend. Thus, we wanted to talk about the different choice of fabric for your winter coat.
Since the topic of a classic Chesterfield coat was already discussed last year (you can find the article here), we won’t be going into details regarding different styles and models. We will present some collections of Italian and English drapers and explain the difference between several materials mostly used in the coat confection.
Let’s start with wool. It’s the most popular and common natural fibre used in the garment confection for centuries. As it was mentioned in one of our articles, wool is breathable, warm and regulates the temperature of your body. Wool is water resistant which makes it a perfect choice for a coat in a snowy and rainy climate. Wool and wool blends come in a variety in weight which enables you to have a light coat for a mid-season and a heavy overcoat for frosty days. This natural fibre can be treated in various ways to have a finish in the form of flannel, felt, gabardine etc. which gives even more possibilities regarding the style of your coat.
Mohair wool is made from the fleece of the Angora goat and has a distinctive frizzy look. It’s shinier and has a natural lustre than merino wool. Mohair is also thermoregulatory which makes it ideal for overgarments. It can be quite expensive; thus, we recommend choosing a wool and mohair blend which will meet all the criteria of a good coat and will not ruin your wallet.
Tweed is known for its sturdy and hursh look and is very appreciated by the connoisseurs of classic English fashion. Tweed, invented by the Scottish, was created to resist harsh and windy weather. It’s water repellent, durable and heat-resistant. The most common tweed weaves are overcheck, herringbone and twill which remain the hallmark of this fabric.
Cashmere would be the choice of those looking for excellence and luxury. Derived from the fleece of cashmere and pashmina goats is considered as one of the most expensive fabrics. Like merino wool, cashmere has thermoregulatory properties but it is characterised by incredible lightness and softness so it can be worn directly next to the skin. Cashmere is lighter and warmer than wool and its fibres are antibacterial and hypoallergenic. Nevertheless, it remains a very delicate fibre so it’s recommended to choose a woollen and cashmere blend for a coat in order to make it more durable.
Fabrics to recommend
The above selection of materials does not exhaust the available fabrics for your coat, but focuses on the basic, natural fibres that should be taken into account when choosing an outer garment that should last years. We would like to recommend 2 main collections that propose a range of materials from pure wool to cashmere blends: “Storm SystemⓇ” by Loro Piana and “Contemporary Overcoats” by Holland & Sherry.
“Storm SystemⓇ” is the trademark registered by Loro Piana and consists of fabrics endowed with waterproof, breathable and wind resistant membranes. This special membrane can be applied to almost any fabric creating a layer that offers protections from dust, dirt and stains, preserving the look of the fabric over the years. “Storm SystemⓇ” offers a variety of fabrics from 100% wool, woolen blends till 100% cashmere, in different weights that enables to create lighter autumn trench till heavy winter coats.
“Contemporary Overcoats” is a beautiful compilation of different fabrics including heavyweight cashmere and merino wool. You will find here, among others, fabrics made of lambswool in a range of colours that will evoke the military style. In a more original spirit, this collection highlights modern fabrics, made of wool, mohair and alpaca. These references have been designed for making overcoats requiring volume and material.