Made to measure should mean quality and that cannot be possible without respecting sartorial techniques when it comes to jacket construction. Many of you ask us how the jacket is made and what techniques we use, thus we wanted to discuss this topic in today’s article.
Let us start by explaining the 3 construction techniques to show you the differences between them and help you understand the elements used to create a jacket. Without going into detail, the basic building blocks of a jacket are the outer fabric, the interlinings and the lining. Depending on the interlinings and how they are fixed inside, we distinguish three construction types:
- fused interlining;
- half canvas;
- full canvas (traditional).
- Fused interlining
It’s the cheapest and a common way of constructing jackets in fast fashion. This method involves glueing the interlining to the back of the outer woollen material by using the heat of an ironing press. While it is the simplest way to give a jacket its structure it has lots of disadvantages: jackets are stiffer than those based on canvas, they are not as airy, and in use they are less durable (with frequent chemical cleaning, the glue loosens and air bubbles may appear on the outer surface of the fabric).
Of course, it is unnecessary to remind that this type of construction is neither tolerated by tailors nor by customers who value tailor-made sewing and high quality of workmanship.
2. Half canvas
Canvas is an insert made traditionally with horsehair that is attached between the lining and the outer fabric. The aim of canvas is to give the jacket a structure, preventing the fabric from crumbling with every movement, especially in the upper part. The canvas forms and gently stiffens the front of the jacket, and is also exceptionally airy. It is extremely important that the canvas is sewn together and not glued to the other layers of the structure.
The half canvas construction means that the canvas is inserted from the shoulders till the mid-length of the jacket (normally to the pockets level). This allows for a solid and well-contoured shoulder construction - a very important part of a well-fitted jacket. The canvas is stitched and not glued which gives a floating and more flexible design thus it’s more durable that a fused interlining.
3. Full canvas
The last and the most appreciated construction type is full canvas. This is a traditional method that needs more time and great sartorial skills thus the jackets sewn this way have a certain price. As its name states the full canvas means stitching the canvas to the whole front of the jacket - from the shoulder line till the bottom. This adds additional structure and weight giving a superior drape. Bespoke tailoring will mostly use the full canvas to ensure the perfect fit and softener look.
Different construction techniques mean different prices but also different quality levels. At Ferala we have chosen a half canvas confection to provide our customers with light and well-fitting jackets at an affordable price. However, we reserve the possibility to propose a traditional structure for those who seek for quality workmanship compared to bespoke tailoring.