A men's coat and a women's coat differ in more than just sizing: buttoning side, cut (straight or fitted) and shoulder proportions follow conventions inherited from the Middle Ages and from military fashion. At Ferala, bespoke tailoring lets you set these conventions aside and design a coat that truly reflects who you are, whether you're a man or a woman.
What is the difference between a men's coat and a women's coat?
At first glance, a coat is a coat: an outerwear piece designed to protect against the cold with elegance. But look closer, and several details immediately reveal whether it was cut for a masculine or a feminine silhouette. At Ferala, where we tailor for both men and women, this question comes up often in the atelier, and the answer comes down to three elements: buttoning, cut, and shoulder structure.
Why aren't the buttons on the same side?
This is the most telling detail, and the oldest one. On a men's coat, the buttons are traditionally on the right side; on a women's coat, they sit on the left. This asymmetry is no stylistic accident: it dates back to Middle Ages customs. Men, who dressed themselves and carried a sword at their side, needed buttoning suited to right-handed manipulation. Noblewomen, on the other hand, were most often dressed by servants, who were also predominantly right-handed, for whom it was easier to button a garment positioned the other way round, facing their mistress. This convention has survived the centuries and still shapes tailoring today, bespoke included.
Does the cut really change everything?
Yes, and it's arguably the most visible difference once worn. A men's coat favours a straighter, more squared line, built to fit broader shoulders and a more rectangular chest, with sleeves proportioned for ease of movement. A women's coat, by contrast, follows the waistline more closely: the cut narrows to trace the silhouette before flaring gently towards the hips. Lapels, length and drape follow the same logic, more functional and understated on the men's side, more sculpted on the women's.
Where does this difference in style and detailing come from?
Beyond the cut, aesthetic codes also diverge in the finishing. Historically, menswear has always favoured functional restraint (generous, practical pockets, clean collars, neutral colours), while womenswear allowed for more embellishment: pronounced waisting, worked collars, decorative linings. These distinctions echo directly in the history of the trench coat, born in a strictly military context before being reinterpreted for every silhouette: a fine example of how a piece originally designed for one gender ends up adapting to both.
Can MTM tailoring set these conventions aside?
This is exactly where made to measure changes everything. At Ferala, these conventions are no longer constraints but starting points: every client, whether a man or a woman, chooses between a straight ou a double breasted coat, the shoulder structure, the length and the cut that truly suits them, straight or fitted, relaxed or close, independent of ready-to-wear standards.
Which fabrics should you choose at Ferala, for men or for women?
Once the cut is set comes the choice of fabric, and this is where the character of the garment truly takes shape. We work exclusively with noble natural fibres: wool, cashmere, or refined blends from houses such as Loro Piana, Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry and Zeg-na. Cashmere, in particular, brings unmatched softness and warmth, sought after on a structured men's coat just as much as on a more fluid women's coat. The choice of fabric, heavier to face the cold or lighter for mid-season, remains independent of gender: only the cut and finishing truly set the two wardrobes apart.
FAQ
Can a woman wear a men's coat, or a man a women's coat? Yes, nothing stops you from wearing whichever coat you feel most comfortable in. Bespoke tailoring is precisely what allows any cut to be adapted to your own body, beyond traditional conventions.
Does the fabric selection differ between a men's and a women's coat at Ferala? No, the same noble fabrics (wool, cashmere, blends from Loro Piana, Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry, Zegna) are offered across both collections. Only the cut and finishing vary.
How long does it take to make a bespoke coat at Ferala? The timeline is between 5 and 7 weeks. We recommend booking an appointment at the atelier to set a precise schedule with our team.
When should you book an appointment for your winter coat? Ideally at the very start of autumn, ahead of the cold season's peak, to allow for an unhurried making process.