The autumn trench coat is the quintessential transitional piece between the last days of summer and the first frosts. Waterproof, structured, and timeless, the men's trench coat embodies enduring elegance, especially when it is custom-tailored for Mantelsonndeg, the traditional time when Luxembourgers update their outerwear.
Why is the trench coat the perfect piece for autumn?
Following our article on spring outfits, the autumn trench coat deserves just as much attention. Neither too light nor too heavy, it carries you through sudden showers and still mild September and October days with the same quiet elegance. Made from tightly woven gabardine, a technical fabric originally designed to resist moisture, it combines a structured silhouette with genuine protective function. It is precisely this balance between style and practicality that makes it, year after year, one of the most requested tailored pieces at Ferala.
Men's Trench Coat: What Style Features for the Season?
The men's trench coat generally features a straighter cut, structured shoulders, and a length close to the knee, designed to be worn over both a suit and a sweater. It incorporates the design elements inherited from the garment's military history (buckled belt, epaulettes, double-breasted closure) that we detailed in our article on the invention of the trench coat. With bespoke tailoring, these elements become optional: each individual chooses the cut, length, and finishes that best suit them, for a trench coat that truly adapts to their physique and intended use.
What actually makes a trench coat waterproof?
The promise of a good trench coat is, above all, to be waterproof without sacrificing style. The tight weave of gabardine creates a first natural barrier against light rain, but some weavers go even further. Loro Piana, for example, has been developing a water-repellent treatment since the 1990s, applied directly to the natural fiber, which allows the wool or cotton to repel water while retaining its breathability and luxurious feel (the famous "Storm System®").
As for the British company Holland & Sherry and their "The Trench Collection," they offer cotton, which uses finer and longer fibers. After gentle spinning, the yarn is woven in a very dense Oxford weave, using up to 30% more yarn than conventionally woven fabrics. The performance of these fabrics results from the properties of the cotton fibers, which expand upon contact with water, allowing the spaces within the fabric to close, thus preventing water from penetrating. In this way, the fabric is waterproof while maintaining unparalleled breathability.
This is the kind of expertise we select for our bespoke trench coats, to guarantee true protection without ever compromising on the natural material.
The mid-season trench coat: how to wear it between September and November?
The mid-season trench coat lends itself to every kind of layering. Worn alone over a shirt or a light jumper on still-mild days, it slips easily over a blazer or a heavier knit once temperatures drop. As for colour, autumn calls for deeper tones than spring: camel beige, dark khaki, midnight blue or black replace pastel shades to great effect, while remaining just as versatile with jeans, tailored trousers or ankle boots.
Why choose a bespoke trench coat for Mantelsonndeg?
Mantelsonndeg, the autumn Sunday when people in Luxembourg traditionally renew their winter coat, is the perfect moment to invest in a tailored trench coat. Unlike ready-to-wear, tailoring allows the length, shoulder width and drape of the fabric to be precisely adjusted to your body, for a garment that will accompany you across many seasons. At Ferala, we recommend booking your appointment from the start of September: allow between 5 and 7 weeks for the making process, so your trench coat is ready in time for Mantelsonndeg and the first cold spells.
FAQ
Is a bespoke trench coat really waterproof? Yes, provided the right fabric is chosen. At Ferala, we recommend gabardines treated with water-repellent technologies such as Loro Piana's “Storm System”, which protect effectively against light rain without altering the character of the natural fabric.
Can a trench coat be worn in winter? The trench coat remains primarily a mid-season piece. For winter, we recommend adding a warm removable lining, or turning to our bespoke winter coat collection.